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Castries --The capital
city has grown up around its harbor , which occupies
the crater of an extinct volcano. Charter captains and the yachting
set drift in here, and large cruise-ship wharves welcome vessels from
around the world. Because several devastating fires (most recently
in 1948) destroyed almost all the old buildings, the town today looks
new, with glass-and-concrete (or steel) buildings rather than the French
colonial or Victorian look typical of many West Indian capitals. Castries
may be architecturally dull, but its public
market is one of the most fascinating in the West Indies,
and our favorite people-watching site on the island. It goes full blast
every day of the week except Sunday, and is most active on Friday and
Saturday mornings. The market stalls are a block from Columbus Square
along Peynier Street, running down toward the water. The country women
dress traditionally, with cotton headdresses; the number of knotted
points on top reveals their marital status (ask one of the locals to
explain it to you). The luscious fruits and vegetables of St. Lucia
may be new to you; the array of color alone is astonishing. Sample
one of the numerous varieties of bananas: on St. Lucia, they're allowed
to ripen on the tree, and taste completely different from those picked
green and sold at supermarkets in the United States. You can also pick
up St. Lucian handcrafts such as baskets and unglazed pottery here.
To the south of Castries looms Morne Fortune ,
the inappropriately named "Hill of Good Luck." In the 18th century,
some of the most savage battles between the French and the British
took place here. You can visit the military cemetery, a small museum,
the old powder magazine, and the "Four Apostles Battery" (a quartet
of grim muzzle-loading cannons). Government House, now the official
residence of the governor-general of St. Lucia, is one of the few examples
of Victorian architecture that escaped destruction by fire. The private
gardens are beautifully planted, aflame with scarlet and purple bougainvillea.
Morne Fortune also offers what many consider the most scenic
lookout perch in the Caribbean. The view of the harbor of
Castries is panoramic: You can see north to Pigeon Island or south
to the Pitons; on a clear day, you may even spot Martinique. To reach
Morne Fortune, head east on Bridge Street. Pigeon
Island National Historic Park --St. Lucia's first national
park is joined to the mainland by a causeway. On its west
coast are two white-sand beaches. There's also a restaurant, Jambe
de Bois, named after a wooden-legged pirate who once used the island
as a hideout. Pigeon Island offers an Interpretation Centre ,
equipped with artifacts and a multimedia display on local history,
ranging from the Amerindian occupation of A.D. 1000 to the Battle of
the Saints, when Admiral Rodney's fleet set out from Pigeon Island
and defeated Admiral De Grasse in 1782. The Captain's Cellar Olde English
Pub lies under the center and is evocative of an 18th-century English
bar. Pigeon Island, only 18 hectares (44 acres), got its name from
the red-neck pigeon, or ramier, that once colonized this island in
huge numbers. Now the site of a Sandals Hotel and interconnected to
the St. Lucian "mainland" with a causeway, the island offers pleasant
panoramas but no longer the sense of isolated privacy that reigned
here prior to its development. Parts of it, those far from the hotel
on the premises, seem appropriate for nature walks. For more information,
call tel. 758/452-2231 . Rodney
Bay --This scenic bay is a 15-minute drive north of Castries.
Set on a man-made lagoon, it has become a chic center for nightlife,
hotels, and restaurants-in fact, it's the most active place on the
island at night. Its marina is one of the top watersports centers in
the Caribbean, and a destination every December for the Atlantic Rally
for Cruisers, when yachties cross the Atlantic to meet and compare
stories. Marigot Bay --Movie crews,
including those for Sophia Loren's Fire Power , have used
this bay, one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean, for background
shots. Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) south of Castries, it's narrow
yet navigable by yachts of any size. Here Admiral Rodney camouflaged
his ships with palm leaves while lying in wait for French frigates.
The shore, lined with palm trees, remains relatively unspoiled, although
some building sites have been sold. It's a delightful spot for a picnic.
A 24-hour ferry connects the bay's two sides. Soufrière --This
little fishing port, St. Lucia's second-largest settlement, is dominated
by two pointed hills called Petit Piton and Gros
Piton . The Pitons, two volcanic cones
rising to 738m and 696m (2,421 ft. and 2,283 ft.), have become the
very symbol of St. Lucia. Formed of lava and rock, and once actively
volcanic, they are now covered in green vegetation. Their sheer rise
from the sea makes them a landmark visible for miles around, and waves
crash at their bases. It's recommended that you attempt to climb only
Gros Piton, but doing so requires the permission of the Forest
and Lands Department (tel. 758/450-2231 or
758/450-2375, ext. 316 or 317) and the company of a knowledgeable guide.
Near Soufrière lies the famous "drive-in" volcano, Mount
Soufrière , a rocky lunar landscape of bubbling mud
and craters seething with sulfur. You literally drive your car into
a millions-of-years-old crater and walk between the sulfur springs
and pools of hissing steam. Entrance costs EC$7.55 (US$2.80) per person
and includes the services of your guide, who will point out the blackened
waters, among the few of their kind in the Caribbean. Hours are daily
from 9am to 5pm; for more information, call tel. 758/459-7200 .
Nearby are the Diamond Mineral Baths (tel. 758/452-4759 )
in the Diamond Botanical Gardens . Deep in the lush
tropical gardens is the Diamond Waterfall, one of the geological attractions
of the island. Created from water bubbling up from sulfur springs,
the waterfall changes colors (from yellow to black to green to gray)
several times a day. The baths were constructed in 1784 on the orders
of Louis XVI, whose doctors told him these waters were similar in mineral
content to the waters at Aix-les-Bains; they were intended to provide
recuperative effects for French soldiers fighting in the West Indies.
The baths have an average temperature of 106°F (41°C). For
between EC$10 (US$3.70) and EC$15 (US$5.55), depending on the degree
of privacy, you can bathe and try out the recuperative effects for
yourself. From Soufrière in the southwest, the road winds toward
Fond St-Jacques, where you'll have a good view of mountains and villages
as you cut through St. Lucia's Cape Moule-Chique tropical rainforest.
You'll also see the Barre de l'Isle divide. Discovering "Forgotten" Grande
Anse --The northeast coast is the least visited and
least accessible part of St. Lucia, but it contains dramatic rockbound
shores interspersed with secret sandy coves. The government has set
Grand Anse aside as a nature reserve so that it will
never be developed. The terrain is arid and can be unwelcoming, but
it is fascinating nonetheless. Grande Anse is home to some rare
bird species, notably the white-breasted thrasher, as well
as the fer-de-lance, the only poisonous snake on the island (but visitors
report rarely seeing them). Its beaches-Grande Anse, Petite Anse, and
Anse Louvet-are nesting grounds for endangered sea turtles ,
including the hawksbill, the green turtle, the leatherback, and the
loggerhead. Nesting season lasts from February to October. Many locals
tackle the poor road in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, especially the
bumpiest part from Desbarra to Grande Anse. Nature
Reserves --The fertile volcanic soil of St. Lucia sustains
a rich diversity of bird and animal life. Some of the richest troves
for ornithologists are in protected precincts off the St. Lucian coast,
in either of two national parks, Fregate Islands Nature Reserve and
the Maria Islands Nature Reserve. The Fregate
Islands are a cluster of rocks a short distance offshore
from Praslin Bay, midway up St. Lucia's eastern coastline. Barren except
for tall grasses that seem to thrive in the salt spray, the islands
were named after the scissor-tailed frigate birds (Fregata magnificens) that
breed here. Between May and July, large colonies of the graceful birds
fly in well-choreographed formations over islands that you can only
visit under the closely supervised permission of government authorities.
Many visitors believe that the best way to admire the Fregate Islands
(and to respect their fragile ecosystems) is to walk along the nature
trail that the St. Lucian government has hacked along the cliff top
of the St. Lucian mainland, about 45m (148 ft.) inland from the shoreline.
Even without binoculars, you'll be able to see the frigates wheeling
overhead. You'll also enjoy eagle's-eye views of the unusual geology
of the St. Lucian coast, which includes sea caves, dry ravines, a waterfall
(during the rainy season), and a strip of mangrove swamp. |
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